Method of treating hair

ABSTRACT

A method of treating the hair including providing a concentrated hair care composition in a dispenser. The concentrated hair care composition includes one or more silicones, perfume, an emulsifier system, and from about 2% to about 10% high melting point fatty compounds. The method also includes dispensing the concentrated hair care composition from the dispenser, applying the concentrated hair care composition the hair; and rinsing the concentrated hair care composition from the hair.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

Described herein is a method of treating hair with a concentrated hair conditioning composition comprising an emulsifier system.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Today's hair conditioners almost universally comprise high levels of high melting point fatty compounds, the most common of which are C16 to C18 fatty alcohols. These high melting point fatty compounds are employed as structuring agents wherein they are combined with one or more surfactants and an aqueous carrier to form a gel network. The gel network increases the viscosity and yield point which facilitates the dispensing of the conditioner from a bottle or tube and the subsequent distribution and spreading of the product through the hair by the consumer. The structuring of the product via gel network also enables incorporation of silicones, perfumes and oils in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion that is phase stable. These silicones and oils are intended to be deposited on the hair to provide the primary hair conditioning benefits including wet and dry combing friction reduction and improved hair manageability.

However, today's gel network hair conditioners can lead to excessive co-deposits of the high melting point fatty compound on the hair over multiple cycles. These co-deposits can lead to significant waxy build-up on hair and weight the hair down. Indeed, one of the major consumer complaints with hair conditioners is often waxy residue which can make hair look greasy or feel heavy. Many current gel network hair conditioners deposit up to 10 times more high melting point fatty compounds (fatty alcohols) than silicones or oils after approximately 10 treatment cycles in technical testing. While not being bound to theory, this is hypothesized to be due to the approximately 10× greater concentration of high melting point fatty compounds in the product relative to the silicone or oil. However, such a high level of melting point fatty compounds (fatty alcohols) has been required to produce a shelf stable gel network with sufficient structuring for consumer acceptable viscosity and rheology.

Described herein is a concentrated hair care composition that enables new product opportunities and consumer benefits by addressing the current disadvantages associated with gel network conditioners. It has been found that concentrated and ultra-low viscosity hair conditioner compositions can be delivered to the hair. These new compositions are concentrated to enable sufficient dosage while also substantially eliminating the need for high melting point fatty compounds or other “insoluble” structurants that can lead to significant co-deposits (from wax structured to gas structured), build-up and weigh down of hair. The new compositions can also comprise nano-emulsions to help enable shelf stability. The net result has been a step change improvement in silicone deposition purity versus today's rinse-off products and an improvement in technical performance benefits from such a pure and transparent deposited silicone layer. These benefits include multicycle hair conditioning without hair weigh down, durable conditioning, reduced hair dye fade, and increased color vibrancy.

Additionally, nanoemulsion technology development is hindered by complex stability issues that emerge when droplet sizes are driven to the nanoscale. This may be especially problematic in the presence of higher levels of perfume oils which may be required for such a concentrated product. The concentrated hair care composition described herein is therefore also focused on improved stability via the development of a specific emulsifier system.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Described herein is a method of treating the hair, the method comprising (a) providing a concentrated hair care composition in a dispenser, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises: (i) from about 3% to about 25% of one or more silicones, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; (ii) from about 2% to about 10% high melting point fatty compounds, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; (iii) from about 0.5% to about 7% perfume, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; (iv) an emulsifier system comprising: (1) from about 1% to about 10% of one or more Type I emulsifiers by weight of the concentrated hair care composition, the one or more Type I emulsifiers having from about 5 to about 9 moles of ethoxylate, the one or more Type I emulsifiers having an HLB value of from about 10.3 to about 13; (2) from about 0.5% to about 5% of one or more Type II emulsifiers by weight of the concentrated hair care composition, the one or more Type II emulsifiers having from about 2 to about 4.9 moles of ethoxylate, the one or more Type II emulsifiers having an HLB value of from about 8 to about 10.3; and (v) from about 60% to about 90% water, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a liquid phase viscosity of from about 200 centipoise to about 15,000 centipoise; wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a silicone to high melting point fatty compound ratio of from about 80:20 to about 30:70, by weight of the silicone and by weight of the high melting point fatty compound; and wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a silicone to perfume ratio of from about 95:5 to about 50:50, by weight of the silicone and by weight of the perfume; (b) dispensing the concentrated hair care composition from the dispenser; (c) applying the concentrated hair care composition to the hair; and (d) rinsing the concentrated hair care composition from the hair.

Also described herein is a dispenser comprising a concentrated hair care composition, the concentrated hair care composition comprising: (a) from about 3% to about 25% of one or more silicones, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition, wherein the particle size of the one or more silicones is from about 1 nm to about 500 nm; (b) from about 2% to about 10% high melting point fatty compounds, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; (c) from about 1% to about 7% perfume, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; (d) an emulsifier system comprising: (i) from about 1% to about 10% of one or more Type I emulsifiers by weight of the concentrated hair care composition, the one or more Type I emulsifiers having from about 5 to about 9 moles of ethoxylate, the one or more Type I emulsifiers having an HLB value of from about 10.3 to about 13; (ii) from about 0.5% to about 5% of one or more Type II emulsifiers by weight of the concentrated hair care composition, the one or more Type II emulsifiers having from about 2 to about 4.9 moles of ethoxylate, the one or more Type II emulsifiers having an HLB value of from about 8 to about 10.3; and (e) from about 60% to about 90% water, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a liquid phase viscosity of from about 200 centipoise to about 15,000 centipoise; wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a silicone to high melting point fatty compound ratio of from about 80:20 to about 30:70, by weight of the silicone and by weight of the high melting point fatty compound; wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a silicone to perfume ratio of from about 95:5 to about 50:50, by weight of the silicone and by weight of the perfume; and wherein the concentrated hair care composition is rinse-off.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.

As used herein, the articles including “a” and “an” when used in a claim, are understood to mean one or more of what is claimed or described.

As used herein, “comprising” means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms “consisting of” and “consisting essentially of”.

As used herein, “mixtures” is meant to include a simple combination of materials and any compounds that may result from their combination.

As used herein, “molecular weight” or “M.Wt.” refers to the weight average molecular weight unless otherwise stated.

As used herein, the terms “include,” “includes,” and “including,” are meant to be non-limiting and are understood to mean “comprise,” “comprises,” and “comprising,” respectively.

As used herein, the term “concentrated” means a hair care composition comprising from about 3% to about 25% of one or more silicones, by weight of the hair care composition.

As used herein, the term “nanoemulsion” means an oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion with an average particle size ranging from about 1 nm to about 100 nm. The particle size referred to herein is z-average measured by dynamic light scattering. The nanoemulsion described herein may be prepared by the following methods: (1) mechanically breaking down the emulsion droplet size; (2) spontaneously forming the emulsion (may be referred to as a microemulsion in the literature); and (3) using emulsion polymerization to achieve average particle size in the target range described herein.

All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.

Unless otherwise noted, all component or composition levels are in reference to the active portion of that component or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources of such components or compositions.

It should be understood that every maximum numerical limitation given throughout this specification includes every lower numerical limitation, as if such lower numerical limitations were expressly written herein. Every minimum numerical limitation given throughout this specification will include every higher numerical limitation, as if such higher numerical limitations were expressly written herein. Every numerical range given throughout this specification will include every narrower numerical range that falls within such broader numerical range, as if such narrower numerical ranges were all expressly written herein.

Hair Care Composition

The method of treating the hair described herein comprises providing a concentrated hair care composition in a dispenser. The concentrated hair care composition may comprise one or more silicones, perfume, an emulsifier system, and one or more fatty compounds.

A. Silicone Deposition Purity

The method of treating hair comprises applying a concentrated hair care composition to the hair. The concentrated hair care composition may comprise a silicone deposition purity of from about 30% to about 90%, alternatively from about 40% to about 80%, and alternatively from about 50% to about 70%, after applying the concentrated hair care composition to the hair and rinsing the concentrated hair care composition from the hair.

Deposition Purity can be determined by the ratio of silicone deposited per weight of hair to the total deposition of other ingredients per weight of hair. The amount of silicone is determined by either extraction or digestion of the hair followed by an analysis with a quantitative technique such as gas chromatography. The total deposition may be determined by the sum of separate deposition measurements or by a Single Inclusive Measurement of total deposition. The separate deposition measurements may include but are not limited to fatty alcohols, EGDS, quaternized agents, and silicone. Typically these measurements involve extracting the hair then separating the ingredients of interest with chromatography and quantifying with an externally calibration based on test solution concentration. The Single Inclusive Measurement of total deposition is gravimetric. The hair is thoroughly extracted and the residue determined by weighing the dissolved residue in the extract after evaporating the solvent. This residue contains both deposited ingredients and naturally occurring extractable compounds from the hair (primarily lipids). The naturally occurring extractable compounds are quantified and subtracted from the total. These include: fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol, ceramides, wax esters, triglycerides and sterol esters. The method of quantitation is similar to the deposition measurements. Other supporting evidence of Deposition Purity may include spectroscopic or topography mapping of the hair surface.

B. Silicones

The concentrated hair care composition may comprise from about 3% to about 25%, alternatively from about 5% to about 20%, alternatively from about 8% to about 18%, and alternatively from about 10% to about 14% of one or more silicones, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition. In a further embodiment, the hair care composition may comprise from about 3% to about 25%, alternatively from about 4% to about 20%, alternatively from about 5% to about 15% of one or more silicones, and alternatively from about 6% to about 12% by weight of the concentrated hair care composition. The particle size of the one or more silicones may be from about 1 nm to about 100 nm, alternatively from about 5 nm to about 80 nm, alternatively from about 10 nm to about 60 nm, and alternatively from about 12 nm to about 50 nm. In a further embodiment, the particle size of the one or more silicones may be from about 1 nm to about 500 nm, alternatively from about 5 nm to about 300 nm, alternatively from about 8 nm to about 200 nm, and alternatively from about 10 nm to about 100 nm. In an embodiment, the silicone is an aminosilicone comprising from about 0.7% to about 1.3% nitrogen content.

The particle size of the one or more silicones can be measured by dynamic light scattering (DLS) using the measurement angle and the refractive index of the one or more silicones. A Malvern Zetasizer Nano ZEN3600 system (www.malver.com) using He—Ne laser 633 nm can be used for the measurement at 25° C.

The Zetasizer Software provided by Malvern Instruments, was used for data analysis. For each sample, 3 measurements were made and Z-average values were reported as the particle size.

In an embodiment, the one or more silicones may be in the form of a nanoemulsion. A nanoemulsion, as defined herein, is an emulsion wherein the particle size is below 100 nm. The nanoemulsion may comprise any silicone suitable for application to the skin and/or hair. In one embodiment, from about 25% to about 100% of the one or more silicones is in the form of a nanoemulsion, in another embodiment from about 50% to about 100% of the one or more silicones is in the form of a nanoemulsion, and in another embodiument from about 75% to about 100% of the one or more silicones is in the form of a nanoemulsion.

In an embodiment, the one or more silicones may include in their molecular structure polar functional groups such as Si—OH (present in dimethiconols), primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, and quaternary ammonium salts. The one or more silicones may be selected from the group consisting of aminosilicones, pendant quaternary ammonium silicones, terminal quaternary ammonium silicones, amino polyalkylene oxide silicones, quaternary ammonium polyalkylene oxide silicones, and amino morpholino silicones.

The one or more silicones may comprise:

-   (a) at least one aminosilicone corresponding to formula (V):     R′_(a)G_(3-a)-Si(OSiG₂)_(n)-(OSiG_(b)R′_(2-b))_(m)—O—SiG_(3-a)-R′_(a)  (I)     in which: -   G is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH group, and     C₁-C₈ alkyl groups, for example methyl, -   a is an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and in one embodiment a is 0, -   b is chosen from 0 and 1, and in one embodiment b is 1, -   m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range for example     from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 50 to 150, wherein n can     be for example chosen from numbers ranging from 0 to 1 999, such as     for example from 49 to 149, and wherein m can be chosen from numbers     ranging for example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 1 to     10; -   R′ is a monovalent group of formula —C_(q)H_(2q)L in which q is a     number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group     chosen from the groups:     —NR″—CH₂—CH₂—N′(R¹)₂,     —N(R″)₂,     —N⁺(R″)₃A⁻,     —N⁺H(R″)₂A⁻,     —N⁺H₂(R″)A⁻, and     —N(R″)—CH₂—CH₂—N⁺R″H₂A⁻,     in which R″ can be chosen from a hydrogen atom, phenyl groups,     benzyl groups, and saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups,     such as for example an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon     atoms, and A⁺ is chosen from halide ions such as, for example,     fluoride, chloride, bromide and iodide.

In an embodiment, the one or more silicones may include those corresponding to formula (1) wherein a=0, G=methyl, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range for example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 50 to 150, wherein n can be for example chosen from numbers ranging from 0 to 1 999, such as for example from 49 to 149, and wherein m can be chosen from numbers ranging for example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 1 to 10; and L is —N(CH₃)₂ or —NH₂, alternatively —NH₂.

Additional said at least one aminosilicone of the invention include:

-   (b) pendant quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (VII):

in which:

-   R₅ is chosen from monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups comprising     from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C₁-C₁₈ alkyl groups and C₂-C₁₈     alkenyl groups, for example methyl; -   R₆ is chosen from divalent hydrocarbon-based groups, such as     divalent C₁-C₁₈ alkylene groups and divalent C₁-C₁₈ alkylenoxy     groups, for example C₁-C₈ alkylenoxy groups, wherein said R₆ is     bonded to the Si by way of an SiC bond; -   Q⁻ is an anion that can be for example chosen from halide ions, such     as chloride, and organic acid salts (such as acetate); -   r is an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, such as from     2 to 8; -   s is an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, such as     from 20 to 50.

Such aminosilicones are described more particularly in U.S. Pat. No. 4,185,087, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein.

A silicone which falls within this class is the silicone sold by the company Union Carbide under the name “Ucar Silicone ALE 56”.

Further examples of said at least one aminosilicone include:

-   c) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (VIIb):

in which:

-   groups R₇, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from     monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon     atoms, such as C₁-C₁₈ alkyl groups, for example methyl, C₂-C₁₈     alkenyl groups, and rings comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms; -   R₆ is chosen from divalent hydrocarbon-based groups, such as     divalent C₁-C₁₈ alkylene groups and divalent C₁-C₁₈alkylenoxy, for     example C₁-C₈, group connected to the Si by an SiC bond; -   R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom,     a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 18 carbon     atoms, and in particular a C₁-C₁₈ alkyl group, a C₂-C₁₈ alkenyl     group or a group —R₆—NHCOR₇; -   X⁻ is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an     organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); -   r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in     particular from 5 to 100. -   Such silicones are described, for example, in application EP-A-0 530     974, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein. -   Silicones falling within this class are the silicones sold by the     company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272     and Abil Quat 3474. -   Further examples of said at least one aminosilicone include: -   d) quaternary ammonium and polyalkylene oxide silicones -   wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are located in the     polysiloxane backbone, at the termini, or both. -   Such silicones are described in PCT Publication No. WO 2002/010257,     the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein. -   Siliciones falling within this class are the silicones sold by the     company Momentive under the names Silsoft Q. -   (e) Aminofunctional silicones having morpholino groups of formula     (V):

in which

A denotes a structural unit (I), (II), or (III) bound via —O—

or an oligomeric or polymeric residue, bound via —O—, containing structural units of formulas (I), (II), or (III), or half of a connecting oxygen atom to a structural unit (III), or denotes —OH,

-   * denotes a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II), or (III),     or denotes a terminal group B (Si-bound) or D (O-bound), -   B denotes an —OH, —O—Si(CH₃)₃, —O—Si(CH₃)₂OH, —O—Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ group, -   D denotes an —H, —Si(CH₃)₃, —Si(CH₃)₂OH, —Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ group,

a, b, and c denote integers between 0 and 1000, with the provision that a+b+c>0,

m, n, and o denote integers between 1 and 1000.

Aminofunctional silicones of this kind bear the INCI name:

-   Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer. A     particularly suitable amodimethicone is the product having the     commercial name Wacker Belsil® ADM 8301E.

Examples of such silicones are available from the following suppliers:

-   -   offered by the company Dow Corning:         -   Fluids: 2-8566, AP 6087, AP 6088, DC 8040 Fluid, fluid 8822A             DC, DC 8803 & 8813 polymer, 7-6030, AP-8104, AP 8201;         -   Emulsions: CE-8170 AF Micro Emulsion, 2-8177, 2-8194             Microemulsion, 9224 Emulsion, 939, 949, 959, DC 5-7113 Quat             Microemulsion, DC 5-7070 Emulsion, DC CE-8810, CE 8401             Emulsion, CE 1619, Dow Corning Toray SS-3551, Dow Corning             Toray SS-3552;     -   offered by the company Wacker:         -   Wacker Belsil ADM 652, ADM 656, 1100, 1600, 1650 (fluids)             ADM 6060 (linear amodimethicone) emulsion; ADM 6057 E             (branched amodimethicone) emulsion; ADM 8020 VP (micro             emulsion); SLM 28040 (micro emulsion);     -   offered by the Company Momentive:         -   Silsoft 331, SF1708, SME 253 & 254 (emulsion), SM2125             (emulsion), SM 2658 (emulsion), Silsoft Q (emulsion)     -   offered by the company Shin-Etsu:         -   KF-889, KF-8675, KF-8004, X-52-2265 (emulsion);     -   offered by the Company Siltech Silicones:         -   Siltech E-2145, E-Siltech 2145-35;     -   offered by the company Evonik Industries:         -   Abil T Quat 60th

Some non-limiting examples of aminosilicones include the compounds having the following INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22, Quaternium-80, as well as Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16/Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

In an embodiment, the aminosilicones can be supplied in the form of a nanoemulsion and include MEM 9049, MEM 8177, MEM 0959, MEM 8194, SME 253, and Silsoft Q.

In an embodiment, the one or more silicones may include dimethicones, and/or dimethiconols. The dimethiconols are hydroxyl terminated dimethylsilicones represented by the general chemical formulas

wherein R is an alkyl group (R may be methyl or ethyl, alternatively methyl) and x is an integer up to about 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercial dimethiconols typically are sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g., Dow Coming® 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids).

C. Emulsifiers

The concentrated hair care compositions described herein can comprise a combination of from about 1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 2% to about 9%, and alternatively from about 3% to about 8% of one or more Type I emulsifiers, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; and from about 0.5% to about 5.0%, alternatively from about 0.6% to about 4.5%, and alternatively from about 0.8% to about 4.0% of one or more Type II emulsifiers, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.

The Type I emulsifiers can be chosen from alcohol ethoxylates which are condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having from about 10 to about 15 carbon atoms, in either straight chain or branched chain configuration, with from about 5 to about 9 moles of ethylene oxide, e.g., a coconut alcohol ethylene oxide condensate having from about 5 to about 9 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having from about 10 to about 14 carbon atom. The aliphatic alcohol can be in the form of primary alcohol or secondary alcohol. The Type I emulsifiers have a range from about 10.3 to about 13.5, alternatively from 10.3 to 13.5, alternatively from about 10.3 to about 13, alternatively from 10.3 to 13. The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of a surfactant is a measure of the degree to which it is hydrophilic or lipophilic.

The Type II emulsifiers can be chosen from alcohol ethoxylates which are condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having from about 10 to about 15 carbon atoms, in either straight chain or branched chain configuration, with from about 2 to about 4.9 moles of ethylene oxide, e.g., a coconut alcohol ethylene oxide condensate having from about 2 to about 4.9 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having from about 10 to about 14 carbon atom. The aliphatic alcohol could be in either form of primary alcohol or secondary alcohol. In an embodiment, the Type II emulsifiers could also have from about 2 to 4.9 moles of ethylene oxide, alternatively from 2 to 4.9 moles of ethylene oxide. The Type II emulsifiers have a HLB range from about 8 to about 10.3, alternatively from 8 to 10.3.

Optionally, the concentrated hair care compositions described herein can comprise one or more Type III emulsifiers which may be present at from about 0% to about 3%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 2.5 and alternatively from about 0.75% to about 1.5%, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.

The Type III emulsifiers can be chosen from alcohol ethoxylates which are condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having from about 15 to about 20 carbon atoms, in either straight chain or branched chain configuration, with frog about 20 to about 200 moles of ethylene oxide, e.g., cetearyl alcohol ethylene oxide condensate having from about 20 to about 200 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of cetearyl alcohol, the alcohol chain having predominantly C16 to C18 chain lengths. The Type iii emulsifiers have an HLB range from about 16 to about 19.5, alternatively from 16 to 19 alternatively from about 16 to about 19. The addition of one or more Type III emulsifiers to the concentrated hair care compositions described herein can further enhance the stability of the concentrated hair care compositions described herein via steric interactions.

The HLB value for an individual emulsifier can be calculated using the following example method:

A typical nonionic emulsifier (e.g. Laureth-4) comprises an ethylene oxide groups or polyhydric alcohol hydrophilic portions with a fatty alcohol hydrophobic portion. The HLB for a nonionic surfactant can be calculated as follows:

Hydrophylic-Lipohylic Balance (HLB)

This value indicates the hydrophylic-lipophylic balance of a molecule and is calculated theoretically:

${{Ethoxylated}\mspace{14mu}{fatty}\mspace{14mu}{alcohols}\text{:}\mspace{14mu} H\; L\; B} = {20 \times \left( \frac{{Moleculat}\mspace{14mu}{weight}\mspace{14mu}{of}\mspace{14mu}{Hydrophilic}\mspace{14mu}{part}}{{Molecular}\mspace{14mu}{weight}\mspace{14mu}{of}\mspace{14mu}{molecule}} \right)}$

Example 1: HLB Calculation for Laureth-4

Molecular weight of ethoxylate portion=176

Molecular weight of lauryl alcohol=186

Wt. % Hydrophile=(176/(176+186))×100=48.6%

HLB=20×48.6/100=9.7

Example 2: Calculation of HLB for a Surfactant Mixture

The surfactant mixture is a 70/30 blend of Steareth-2 and Steareth-21.

Total HLB:

Steareth-2 contribution 0.7×4.9=3.43

Steareth-21 contribution 0.3×15.5=4.65

Total HLB=8.08

Some exemplary emulsifiers:

C10 primary alcohol branched HLB HC chain length Mw Imbentin-E/100/030 (3 EO) 8.5 10 290 Imbentin-E/100/050 (5 EO) 11.5 10 380 Imbentin-E/100/060 (6 EO) 12.5 10 420

C13 primary alcohol branched HLB HC chain length Mw Imbentin-T/030 (3 EO) 8.1 13 330 Imbentin-T/040 (4 EO) 9 13 380 Imbentin-T/050 (5 EO) 10.6 13 420 Imbentin-T/060 (6 EO) 11.5 13 460

C11-15 Secondary alcohol HLB HC chain length Mw C11-15 Pareth-5 (5 EO) 10.6 11-15 415 C11-15 Pareth-7 (7 EO) 12.1 11-15 515 C11-15 Pareth-9 (9 EO) 13.3 11-15 584 C11-15 Pareth-12 (12 EO) 14.5 11-15 738

The average HLB value for the combination of the one or more Type I emulsifiers and the one or rrrore Type II emulsifiers in the emulsifier system is from about 9.25 to about 13.25, alternatively from 9.25 to 13.25 based on the mole average. The mole average HLB value for the emulsifier mixture (HLB_(mix)) is calculated via solving the two following equations, concurrently:

${a\text{:}\mspace{14mu} H\; L\; B_{mix}} = {{\frac{w\mspace{14mu}\%_{EmI}}{{Mw}_{EmI}} \times H\; L\; B_{EmI}} + {\frac{w\mspace{14mu}\%_{EmII}}{{Mw}_{EmII}} \times H\; L\; B_{EmII}}}$ ${{b\text{:}\mspace{14mu}\frac{w\mspace{14mu}\%_{EmI}}{{Mw}_{EmI}}} + \frac{w\mspace{14mu}\%_{EmII}}{{Mw}_{EmII}}} = 1$ wherein w % _(EmI) is the weight percentage for emulsifier Type I, Mw_(EmI) is the molecular weight for emulsifier Type I, w % _(EmII) is the weight percentage for emulsifier Type II, Mw_(EmII) is the molecular weight for emulsifier Type II.

For a target HLB_(mix) the required w % for each emulsifier type can be calculated, as described in the following table:

Target Target Type EO# HLB Mw HLB_(mix): 11 HLB_(mix): 12 Trideceth 9¹ EmI 9 13.2 601 71% 86% Trideceth 3² EmII 3 8 333 29% 14% ¹NOVEL TDA 9 ²NOVEL TDA 3

D. Perfume

The concentrated hair care composition may comprise from about 1% to about 7%, alternatively from about 1.5% to about 6%, and alternatively from about 2% to about 5% perfume, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.

In an embodiment, the concentrated hair care composition may have a silicone to perfume ratio of from about 95:5 to about 50:50, 90:10 to 60:40, 85:15 to 70:30.

Examples of suitable perfumes may be provided in the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) 1992 International Buyers Guide, published by CFTA Publications and OPD 1993 Chemicals Buyers Directory 80th Annual Edition, published by Schnell Publishing Co. A plurality of perfume components may be present in the concentrated hair care composition.

E. High Melting Point Fatty Compounds

The concentrated hair care composition may comprise from about 2% to about 10% high melting point fatty compounds, alternatively from about 4% to about 8% high melting point fatty compounds, alternatively from about 5% to about 7% high melting point fatty compounds, and alternatively may comprise about 6% high melting point fatty compounds, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition. In an embodiment, the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 1.75% to about 8% fatty alcohols, alternatively from about 2% to about 6%, alternatively from about 2.25% to about 4%, and alternatively from about 2.5% to about 3.5%, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition. The concentrated hair care composition may have an oil to high melting point fatty compound ratio of from about 30:70 to about 80:20, alternatively from about 40:60 to about 70:30, and alternatively from about 50:50 to about 70:30 by weight of the oil and by weight of the high melting point fatty compound. In an embodiment, the concentrated hair care composition may have an oil to high melting point fatty compound ratio of from about 40:60 to about 85:15, alternatively from about 50:50 to about 80:20, and alternatively from about 55:45 to about 75:25 by weight of the oil and by weight of the high melting point fatty compound.

The high melting point fatty compounds have a melting point of about 25° C. or higher, and are selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than about 25° C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.

The fatty alcohols described herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, alternativelyfrom about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and alternatively from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are saturated and can be straight or branched chain acids. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through steareth-10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e., a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C16-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the fatty compound may be a single high melting point compound of high purity. Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected may be selected from the group consisting of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. By “pure” herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, alternatively at least about 95%.

Commercially available high melting point fatty compounds described herein include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1-DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago, Ill. USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin, Ohio USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy).

F. Cationic Surfactants

In an embodiment, the concentrated hair care composition may comprise 0%, alternatively from about 0.25% to about 5%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 4%, and alternatively from about 1% to about 3% cationic surfactants, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.

The cationic surfactant may be a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt having the formula (XIII) [from WO2013148778]:

wherein one of R⁷¹, R⁷² R⁷³ a n R⁷⁴ selected from an aliphatic group of from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷¹, R⁷² R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from about 1 to about 8 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, glutamate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals. The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 16 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. In an embodiment, one of R⁷¹, R⁷² R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ is selected from an alkyl group of from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms, and alternatively from about 16 to about 18 carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³, and R⁷⁴ are independently selected from the group consisting of CH₃, C₂H₅, C₂H₄OH, CH₂C₅H₅, and mixtures thereof; and (X) is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH₃OSO₃, and mixtures thereof. It is believed that such mono-long alkyl quatemized ammonium salts can provide improved slippery and slick feel on wet hair.

Nonlimiting examples of such mono-long alkyl quatemized ammonium salt cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename Genamine KDMP from Clariant, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei; stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-2450 from Nikko Chemicals; cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemicals; behenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, available from FeiXiang; hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride; and stearoyl amidopropyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.

In an embodiment, the cationic surfactants are those having a shorter alkyl group, i.e., C₁₆ alkyl group. Such cationic surfactant includes, for example, cetyl trimethyl ammonim chloride. It is believed that cationic surfactants having a shorter alkyl group are advantageous for concentrated hair care silicone nanoemulsion compositions of the present invention comprising a cationic surfactant and with improved shelf stability.

G. Water Miscible Solvents

The concentrated hair care composition described herein may comprise from about 0.1% to about 25%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 20%, and alternatively from about 0.1% to about 15% of a water miscible solvent, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition. Non-limiting examples of suitable water miscible solvents include polyols, copolyols, polycarboxylic acids, polyesters and alcohols.

Examples of useful polyols include, but are not limited to, glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, hexane diol, polyethylene glycol (200-600), sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, manitol, lactitol and other mono- and polyhydric low molecular weight alcohols (e.g., C₂-C₈ alcohols); mono di- and oligo-saccharides such as fructose, glucose, sucrose, maltose, lactose, and high fructose corn syrup solids and ascorbic acid.

Examples of polycarboxylic acids include, but are not limited to citric acid, maleic acid, succinic acid, polyacrylic acid, and polymaleic acid.

Examples of suitable polyesters include, but are not limited to, glycerol triacetate, acetylated-monoglyceride, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate.

Examples of suitable dimethicone copolyols include, but are not limited to, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, and PPG-12 dimethicone.

Examples of suitable alcohols include, but are not limited to ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, sec-butanol, tert-butanol, n-hexanol and cyclohexanol.

Other suitable water miscible solvents include, but are not limited to, alkyl and allyl phthalates; napthalates; lactates (e.g., sodium, ammonium and potassium salts); sorbeth-30; urea; lactic acid; sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA); sodium hyraluronate or hyaluronic acid; soluble collagen; modified protein; monosodium L-glutamate; alpha & beta hydroxyl acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, maleic acid and salicylic acid; glyceryl polymethacrylate; polymeric plasticizers such as polyquaterniums; proteins and amino acids such as glutamic acid, aspartic acid, and lysine; hydrogen starch hydrolysates; other low molecular weight esters (e.g., esters of C₂-C₁₀ alcohols and acids); and any other water soluble plasticizer known to one skilled in the art of the foods and plastics industries; and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the water miscible solvents may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. EP 0283165 B1 discloses other suitable water miscible solvents, including glycerol derivatives such as propoxylated glycerol.

H. Viscosity Modifiers

The concentrated hair care composition described herein may comprise from about 0.1% to about 2%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 1%, and alternatively from about 0.1% to about 0.5% of a viscosity modifier, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition. Non-limiting examples of suitable viscosity modifiers include water soluble polymers, cationic water soluble polymers,

Examples of water soluble polymers include, but are not limited to (1) vegetable based polymers such as gum Arabic, tragacanth gum, galactan, guar gum, carob gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seed, algal colloid, starch (rice, corn, potato, or wheat), and glycyrrhizinic acid; (2) microorganism-based polymers such as xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, and pullulan; and (3) animal-based polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin, and gelatin. Examples of semi-synthetic water-soluble polymers include (1) starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch and methylhydroxypropyl starch; (2) cellulose-based polymers such as methylcellulose, nitrocellulose, ethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), crystalline cellulose, and cellulose powder; and (3) alginate-based polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate. Examples of synthetic water-soluble polymers include (1) vinyl-based polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether-based polymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and carboxyvinyl polymer (CARBOPOL 940, CARBOPOL 941; (2) polyoxyethylene-based polymers such as polyethylene glycol 20,000, polyethylene glycol 6,000, and polyethylene glycol 4,000; (3) copolymer-based polymers such as a copolymer of polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene, and PEG/PPG methyl ether; (4) acryl-based polymers such as poly(sodium acrylate), poly(ethyl acrylate), polyacrylamide, polyethylene imines, and cationic polymers. The water-swellable clay minerals are nonionic water-soluble polymers and correspond to one type of colloid-containing aluminum silicate having a triple layer structure. More particular, as examples thereof, mention may be made of bentonite, montmorillonite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, aluminum magnesium silicate, and silicic anhydride.

Examples of cationic water soluble polymers include, but are not limited to (1) quaternary nitrogen-modified polysaccharides such as cation-modified cellulose, cation-modified hydroxyethylcellulose, cation-modified guar gum, cation-modified locust bean gum, and cation-modified starch; (2) dimethyldiallylammonium chloride derivatives such as a copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide, and poly(dimethylmethylene piperidinium chloride); (3) vinylpyrrolidone derivatives such as a salt of a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylic acid, a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamide propyltrimethylammonium chloride, and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methylvinylimidazolium chloride; and (4) methacrylic acid derivatives such as a copolymer of methacryloylethyldimethylbetaine, methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, a copolymer of methacryloylethyldimethylbetaine, and methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride and methoxy polyethylene glycol methacrylate.

I. Viscosity

The concentrated hair care composition described herein may have a liquid phase viscosity of from about 200 centipoise to about 5,000 centipoise, alternatively from about 300 centipoise to about 4,000 centipoise, alternatively from about 400 centipoise to about 3,000 centipoise, and alternatively from about 500 centipoise to about 2,000 centipoise. In one embodiment, the concentrated hair care composition described herein may have a liquid phase viscosity of from about 200 centipoise to about 15,000 centipoise, alternatively from about 300 centipoise to about 10,000 centipoise, alternatively from about 400 centipoise to about 7,500 centipoise, alternatively from about 500 centipoise to about 5,000 centipoise, and alternatively from about 600 centipoise to about 3,000 centipoise.

The viscosity values may be measured employing any suitable rheometer or viscometer at 25.0° C. and at a shear rate of about 2 reciprocal seconds. The viscosities reported herein were measured using a Cone/Plate Controlled Stress Brookfield Rheometer R/S Plus, by Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Stoughton, Mass. The cone used (Spindle C-75-1) has a diameter of 75 mm and 1° angle. The viscosity is determined using a steady state flow experiment at constant shear rate of 2 s⁻¹ and at temperature of 25.0° C. The sample size is 2.5 ml and the total measurement reading time is 3 minutes.

J. Optional Ingredients

The concentrated hair care composition described herein may optionally comprise one or more additional components known for use in hair care or personal care products, provided that the additional components are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, or do not otherwise unduly impair product stability, aesthetics or performance. Such optional ingredients are most typically those materials approved for use in cosmetics and that are described in reference books such as the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, The Cosmetic, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association, Inc. 1988, 1992. Individual concentrations of such additional components may range from about 0.001 wt % to about 10 wt % by weight of the conditioning composition.

Emulsifiers suitable as an optional ingredient herein include mono- and di-glycerides, fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters, propylene glycol esters, sorbitan esters and other emulsifiers known or otherwise commonly used to stabilized air interfaces, as for example those used during preparation of aerated foodstuffs such as cakes and other baked goods and confectionary products, or the stabilization of cosmetics such as hair mousses.

Further non-limiting examples of such optional ingredients include preservatives, perfumes or fragrances, cationic polymers, viscosity modifiers, coloring agents or dyes, conditioning agents, hair bleaching agents, thickeners, moisturizers, foam boosters, additional surfactants or nonionic cosurfactants, emollients, pharmaceutical actives, vitamins or nutrients, sunscreens, deodorants, sensates, plant extracts, nutrients, astringents, cosmetic particles, absorbent particles, adhesive particles, hair fixatives, fibers, reactive agents, skin lightening agents, skin tanning agents, anti-dandruff agents, perfumes, exfoliating agents, acids, bases, humectants, enzymes, suspending agents, pH modifiers, hair colorants, hair perming agents, pigment particles, anti-acne agents, anti-microbial agents, sunscreens, tanning agents, exfoliation particles, hair growth or restorer agents, insect repellents, shaving lotion agents, non-volatile solvents or diluents (water-soluble and water-insoluble), co-solvents or other additional solvents, and similar other materials.

K. Dispenser

The dispenser described herein may be any suitable dispenser for dispensing the concentrated hair composition. In an embodiment, the bottle may comprise a flip-top or a disc-top closure with an orifice opening. The dispenser may be a bottle comprising a substantially rigid wall. A substantially rigid wall may mean that the walls of the bottle to not collapse under atmospheric pressure. In an embodiment, the dispenser may comprise a neck narrower than the body. In an embodiment, the dispenser may be made of a material comprising polypropylene plastic. In an embodiment, the dispenser may comprise a closure that is threaded or snap-on.

In an embodiment, the dispenser may comprise a closure comprising an elastomeric valve. In an embodiment, the elastomeric valve may be cross-slit. The elastomeric valve may be seated in the closure and may be combined with a flip-top cap. The elastomeric valve may be made of a material selected from the group consisting of silicone, rubber, synthetic rubber, and combinations thereof. Other suitable valve designs may include duck-bill valves and dome valves.

In an embodiment, the dispenser may comprise a pump mechanism involving a dip tube to enable upright dosing.

The concentrated hair care composition is dispensed at a dosage weight of from about 1 g to about 10 g, alternatively from about 1 g to about 8 g, and alternatively from about 1 g to about 5 g. In an embodiment, the concentrated hair care composition is dispensed at a dosage weight of from about 1 g to about 7 g when dispensed from the dispenser, alternatively from about 2 g to about 6 g, alternatively from about 2.5 g to about 5 g, and alternatively from about 3 g to about 4.5 g. The dosage may be obtained via a single squeeze, pump or actuation of the dispenser, but may be accomplished via two squeezes, pumps or actuations of the dispenser.

I. Water

The concentrated hair care composition described herein may comprise from about from about 60% to about 90% water, alternatively from about 65% to about 87.5%, alternatively from about 67.5% to about 85%, alternatively from about 70% to about 82.5%, and alternatively from about 72.5% to about 80% water.

Method of Treating Hair

The method of treating the hair described herein comprises (1) providing a concentrated hair care composition in a dispenser, (2) dispensing the concentrated hair composition, (3) applying the concentrated hair care composition to the hair; and (4) rinsing the concentrated hair care composition from the hair.

EXAMPLES & DATA

The following examples and comparative examples are provided to help illustrate the concentrated hair care composition described herein. The exemplified compositions can be prepared by conventional formulation and mixing techniques. It will be appreciated that other modifications of the concentrated hair care compositions described herein within the skill of those in the emulsion formulation art can be undertaken without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention. All parts, percentages, and ratios herein are by weight unless otherwise specified. Some components may come from suppliers as dilute solutions. The amount stated reflects the weight percent of the active material, unless otherwise specified.

The emulsification route described herein is “Low-Energy Route” in which the aqueous emulsion in formed by phase inversion by composition (PIC)^(1,2). In this route water or acidified water is added to the mixture of silicone and emulsifiers.

The concentrated hair care compositions described herein are of two types; one without gel network and the other with gel network.

The following tables describe comparative examples for the silicone emulsions prepared under the following conditions:

a. The emulsions containing only Type I emulsifier

b. The emulsions containing only Type II emulsifier

c. The emulsions containing Type I and Type I emulsifiers

d. The emulsions containing Type II and Type II emulsifiers

Examples of Type I and Type II emulsifiers are provided below.

a. The emulsions containing only one Type I emulsifier

TABLE 1 comparative example 1a Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 Trideceth 5 ² 10.00 Glycerin 0.00 Water Q.S. pH 9.8 Particle Size (PS): 326 nm ¹ Salager et al., J Disp. Sci & Tech. 4, 313, 83 ² Sajjadi, Langmuir, 22, 5597, 2006 ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Synpronic 13/5-LQ-(HLB: 11, EO: 5)

TABLE 2 Comparative example 1b Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 Trideceth 5 ² 10.00 Glycerin 0.00 Glacial acetic acid 1.00 Water Q.S. pH 8.0 Observation: Very high viscosity (Gelled) ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Synpronic 13/5-LQ-(HLB: 11, EO: 5)

TABLE 3 Comparative example 2a Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 C11-15 pareth 9 ² 10.00 Glycerin 0.00 Glacial acetic acid 1.00 Water Q.S. PS: 249 nm ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Tergitol 15-s-9 (HLB: 13.3, EO: 9)

TABLE 4 Comparative example 2b Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 C11-15 pareth 9 ² 10.00 Glycerin 1.50 Glacial acetic acid 1.00 Water Q.S. PS: 228 nm ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Tergitol 15-s-9 (HLB: 13.3, EO: 9)

b. The emulsions containing only one Type II emulsifier

TABLE 5 Comparative example 3 Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 Trideceth 3 ² 10.00 Glycerin 0.00 Glacial acetic acid 1.00 Water Q.S. PS: 256 nm ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Iconol TDA 3 (HLB: 8, EO: 3)

TABLE 6 Comparative example 4 and 5 Comparative Example 4 5 Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 20.00 Deceth 4 10.00 8.00 Glycerin 1.50 1.50 Glacial acetic acid 1.00 1.00 Water Q.S. Q.S. PS: 287 nm PS: 326 nm ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Imbentin-E/100/040 (HLB: 10, EO: 4)

TABLE 7 Comparative Example 6 Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 Laureth 4 ² 10.00 Glycerin 0.00 Glacial acetic acid 1.00 Water Q.S. PS: 246 nm ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Dehydol LS 4 DEO-N (HLB: 9, EO: 4)

c. The Emulsions Containing a Combination of Type I Emulsifiers

TABLE 8 Comparative example 7 Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 C11-15 Pareth 7 ² 7.73 C11-15 Pareth 9 ³ 2.27 Glycerin 1.50 Glacial acetic acid 1.00 Water Q.S. PS: 59 nm ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Tergitol 15-s-9 (HLB: 13.3, Mw: 584 g/mol) ³ Tergitol 15-s-7 (HLB: 12.1, Mw: 515 g/mol)

The emulsion given in comparative example 7 (Table 8), gives a particle size below 100 nm; however, once the emulsion is incorporated into the conditioner formulation given in the comparative example 8, the formulation becomes unstable as evidenced by the increase in the particle size.

d. The Emulsions Containing a Combination of Type II Emulsifiers

TABLE 10 Comparative examples 9-11 Comparative Example 9 10 11 Amodimethicone ¹ 20.00 20.00 20.00 Deceth 2 ² 0 0.44 0 Deceth 2.5 ³ 0.71 0.00 0.00 Deceth 3 ⁴ 0 0 0.88 Deceth 4 ⁵ 9.29 9.56 9.12 Glycerin 1.50 1.50 1.50 Glacial acetic acid 1.00 1.00 1.00 Water Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. PS: 239 nm PS: 356 nm PS: 294 nm ¹ Y17045-Momentive ² Imbentin-AG/100/020 (HLB: 7.2, Mw: 240 g/mol) ³ Greenbentin DE/025 (HLB: 8.2, Mw: 268 g/mol) ⁴ Imbentin-E/100/030 (HLB: 8.5, Mw: 290 g/mol) ⁵ Imbentin-E/100/040 ( HLB: 10.0, Mw: 330 g/mol)

1. Conditioner Formulations with Gel Network

The comparative examples described herein are for conditioner formulations containing gel network. The measurement parameter for these compositions is viscosity which correlates with the gel network structure (i.e. The more disruption in gel network structure, the lower the viscosity of the conditioner composition).

TABLE 10 Comparative example 11. Comparative example 11 comprising a commercial emulsion using a combination of only Type I emulsifiers. Raw Material % w Distilled Water Q.S. Disodium EDTA 0.127 BTMS/IPA 5.3315 Cetyl Alcohol 0.8635 Stearyl Alcohol 2.1545 Benzyl Alcohol 0.4 Kathon CG 0.0333 Amodimethicone emulsion (20% active) ¹ 40 Perfume 2 Citric acid 0.02 Viscosity (cp) <300 Silsoft 253 (INCI: Amodimethicone (and) C11-15 Pareth-7 (and) Laureth-9 (and) Glycerin 1 (and) Trideceth-12)

TABLE 11 Comparative examples 12 and 13 Comparative example 12 and 13 comprising silicone emulsions using a combination of only Type I emulsifiers. Comparative Example 12 13 Raw Material % w % w Distilled Water Q.S. Q.S. Disodium EDTA 0.13 0.13 Behentrimonium Methosulfate Isopropyl Alcohol 5.33 5.33 Cetyl Alcohol 0.86 0.86 Stearyl Alcohol 2.15 2.15 Perfume 2.00 0.00 C11-15 Pareth 9 ¹ 2.56 2.56 C11-15 Pareth 12 ² 0.00 2.14 Laureth 9 ³ 1.20 1.00 Trideceth 12 ⁴ 0.24 0.30 Glycerin 1.20 1.20 Amodimethicone ⁵ 8.00 8.00 Benzyl Alcohol 0.40 0.40 Kathon CG 0.03 0.03 Citric acid 0.02 0.02 Viscosity (cp) <300 <300 ¹ Tergitol 15-s-9 (HLB: 13.3, Mw: 584 g/mol) ² Tergitol 15-s-12 (HLB: 14.5, Mw: 738 g/mol) ³ Brij L9 (HLB: 13.6, Mw: 580 g/mol) ⁴ Novel TDA-12 (HLB: 14.4, Mw: 729 g/mol) ⁵ Y17045-Momentive

The following table provides+examples of the conditioner formulations in which the gel network has not been compromised (reduced viscosity) to the extent of comparative examples 21-23, as evidenced by the viscosity values of conditioner formulations.

TABLE 13 Examples for conditioner formulations containing gel network Example 14 15 16 17 18 19 Raw Material % w % w % w % w % w % w Distilled Water Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Disodium EDTA 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 Behentrimonium Methosulfate 5.33 5.33 5.33 5.33 5.33 5.33 Isopropyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 Stearyl Alcohol 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.15 Perfume 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 C11-15 Pareth 7¹ 2.56 0 0 0 0 0 Trideceth 5² 0.00 2.18 2.18 2.18 0 0 Trideceth 3³ 0.00 1.22 1.22 0 0 0 C12-13 Pareth-3⁴ 0.00 0 0 1.22 0 0 Ceteareth 25⁵ 0.00 0 0.6 0.6 0 0.6 Steareth 100⁶ 0.00 0.6 0 0 0.6 0 Deceth-3⁷ 1.44 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 C11-15 Pareth 5⁸ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.18 2.18 Trideceth 4⁹ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.22 1.22 Glycerin 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 Amodimethicone¹⁰ 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 Benzyl Alcohol 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Kathon CG 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Citric acid 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Viscosity (cp) 851 812 740 852 1483 1077 ¹Tergitol 15-s-7 (HLB: 12.1, Mw: 515 g/mol) ²Novel TDA-5 (HLB: 10.4, Mw: 421 g/mol) ³Iconol TDA 3 (HLB: 8, Mw: 333 g/mol) ⁴Brij LT-3 (HLB: 8, Mw: 333 g/mol) ⁵Cremophor A 25 (HLB: 16.2, Mw: 1360 g/mol) ⁶Brij S100 (HLB: 18.8), Mw: 4670 g/mol) ⁷Imbentin-E/100/030 (HLB: 8.5, Mw: 290 g/mol) ⁸Tergitol 15-s-5 (HLB: 10.6, Mw: 415 g/mol) ⁹Imbentin T-40 (HLB: 9, Mw: 380 g/mol) ¹⁰Y 17045-Momentive

The impact of emulsifier on the gel network is believed to be due to moles of ethylene oxide in the emulsifier (i.e. EO #). To demonstrate such an impact and define the optimum EO number for the formulation, emulsifiers of different EO moles is introduced into the conditioner formulation individually at 2 and 4%, according to the Table 13. The corresponding emulsifier systems evaluated in conditioning formulations for their impact on the viscosity of the conditioner and its stability are provided in Tables 14 (for primary ethoxylated alcohol emulsifiers) and 150 (for secondary ethoxylated alcohol emulsifiers).

TABLE 13 Conditioner compositions formulated with two different emulsifier levels of 2 and 4% 20 21 With 4% emulsifier With 2% emulsifier Ingredients % w % w Disodium EDTA 0.13 0.13 BTMS/IPA 5.33 5.33 Cetyl Alcohol 0.86 0.86 Stearyl Alcohol 2.15 2.15 Benzyl Alcohol 0.40 0.40 Kathon CG 0.03 0.03 Citric acid 0.02 0.02 Perfume 2.00 2.00 Emulsifier 4.00 2.00 Water QS QS

The viscosity values of the formulations measured on the 2^(nd) day are given in the Table 2 for emulsifiers of primary ethoxylated alcohol type and with a hydrocarbon chain range of 11-14 carbons. As can be seen from Table 14, the viscosity of the compositions significantly decrease when the EO moles of emulsifier increases from 6 to 10.

TABLE 14 Viscosity values for conditioners containing primary ethoxylated alcohol emulsifiers at 2 and 4%. Viscosity Viscosity (cp) (cp) Hydrocarbon EO Commercial 4% 2% HLB chain moles name emulsifier emulsifier 8 11-14 (13 rich) 3 BASF TDA-3 7345 5165 8.1 11-14 (13 rich) 3 Imbentin T/30 7908 5243 8 13 3 Novel TD3 8617 4779 8 11-14 (13 rich) 4 Imbentin T/040 8492 5354 10.4 13 5 Novel TDA-5 8904 5291 10.6 11-14 (13 rich) 5 Imbentin T/050 8262 4993 11 13 5 Synperonic 13/5 8432 4952 11.3 13 6 Hetoxol TD-6 6695 4624 11.3 13 6 Novel TD6 5791 4740 11.5 11-14 (13 rich) 6 Imbentin T/060 8187 4828 13.9 11-14 (13 rich) 10 Imbentin T/100 1617 2652 15.4 11-14 (13 rich) 15 Imbentin T/150 2482 2731 16 13 18 Hetoxol TD-18 2210 3495 Viscosity for the conditioner formulation without any emulsifier: 5876 cp

Also, Table 15 provides the viscosity values of the conditioner formulations (measured on the 2^(nd) day) comprising emulsifiers of secondary ethoxylated alcohol type and with a hydrocarbon chain range of 11-15 carbons. As can be seen from Table 15, the viscosity of the conditioner compositions significantly decrease when the EO moles of emulsifier increases from 9 to 12.

TABLE 15 Viscosity values for conditioners containing secondary ethoxylated alcohol emulsifiers at 2 and 4%. Viscosity Viscosity HC chain EO (cp) (cp) HLB length number Emulsifier 4% 2% 8 12-13 3 BriJ LT-3 8044 4698 8 11-15 3 15-s-3 6102 4701 10.6 11-15 5 15-s-5 8325 5755 12.1 11-15 7 15-s-7 3336 2297 12 12-14 7 Nikkol BT-7 3057 2124 13.3 11-15 9 15-s-9 783 2509 13.5 12-14 9 Nikkol BT-9 1165 2672 14.5 11-15 12 Tergitol 15-S-12 875 2145 14.5 12-14 12 Nikkol BT-12 1430 1093 15 12-13 12 Brij LT-12 2057 2943 16.3 11-15 20 Tergitol 15-S-20 2960 4189 Viscosity for the conditioner formulation without any emulsifier: 5876 cp

The viscosity values for conditioner compositions containing emulsifiers with longer hydrocarbon chain length (16-18) with HLB values greater than 16 are given in Table 16. According to the data provided in Table 4, these emulsifiers do not negatively impact (that is, do not reduce) the viscosity of the conditioner composition, and the emulsifiers described herein can assist with maintaining the viscosity of conditioner formulation.

TABLE 161 Viscosity values for conditioners containing emulsifiers of ceteareth and steareth at 2 and 4%. This class of emulsifiers are Type III (containing a long carbon chain (C15-C20) and higher moles of EO (20-200) in their molecule HC chain EO Viscosity Viscosity HLB length number Emulsifier 4% 2% 16.2 16-18 25 Ceteareth 25 4981 6457 17.7 16-18 50 Ceteareth 50 5180 6210 18.8 18 100 Steareth 100 6690 7561 Viscosity for the conditioner formulation without any emulsifier: 5876 cp

TABLE 17 The emulsions comprising Type I, Type II and Type III emulsifiers. Example 22 23 24 Amodimethicone¹ 20 20 20 Glycerin 1 3 3 Trideceth-3 0.72 3.48 3.7 Ceteareth-25 1.5 1.5 4.3 C11-15 Pareth 7 ² 5.02 2 C11-15 Pareth 9 ³ 7.78 acetic acid 2 1.66 1.66 Phenoxy Ethanol 1 Water (q.s.) (q.s.) (q.s.) HLB 12.8 10.3 10.3 ¹Y17045 available from Momentive ² Tergitol 15-S-9 (HLB 13.3, MW 584 g/mol) ³ Tergitol 15-S-7 (HLB 12.1, MW 515 g/mol)

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean “about 40 mm.”

Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention. 

What is claimed is:
 1. A method of treating the hair, the method comprising: a) providing a concentrated hair care composition in a dispenser, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises: i) from about 2% to about 10% fatty alcohol by weight of the concentrated hair care composition, selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; from about 0.5% to about 7% perfume, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; an emulsion comprising: a) an amodimethicone comprising a particle size from about 8 nm to about 200 nm; b) from about 1% to about 10% of a first alcohol ethoxylate, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition, comprising from about 5 to about 9 moles of ethoxylate and an HLB value of from about 10.3 to about 13; c) from about 0.5% to about 5% of a second alcohol ethoxylate, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition comprising from about 2 to about 4.9 moles of ethoxylate and an HLB value of from about 8 to about 10.3; from about 60% to about 90% water, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 3% to about 25% of the amodimethicone, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition; b) dispensing the concentrated hair care composition from the dispenser; c) applying the concentrated hair care composition to the hair; and d) rinsing the concentrated hair care composition from the hair.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the particle size of the amodimethicone is from about 10 nm to about 100 nm.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a liquid phase viscosity of from about 300 centipoise to about 10,000 centipoise.
 4. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 4% to about 20% of the amodimethicone, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.
 5. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 2% to about 12% of a nonionic emulsifier, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.
 6. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises an amodimethicone to fatty alcohol ratio of from about 40:60 to about 70:30.
 7. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 5% to about 15% of the amodimethicone, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.
 8. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 4% to about 8% fatty alcohols, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.
 9. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 2.25% to 4% fatty alcohols, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.
 10. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 1.5% to about 6% perfume, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.
 11. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition comprises from about 2% to about 5% perfume, by weight of the concentrated hair care composition.
 12. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a dosage weight of from about 2.5 g to about 5 g.
 13. The method of claim 1, wherein the concentrated hair care composition has a density of about 1 g/cm³.
 14. The method of claim 1 wherein the emulsion is formed by phase inversion by composition. 